THE WHITE STAR GAVI IN THE LAND OF THE REDS

Old habits die hard. When I think of Italian wine, I still can’t help thinking of red. But there’s more to Italy than that. What better place to start than in Piedmont, being one of the top wine producing areas in Italy with 50 different DOC(G) in the region. Admittedly, with Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Dolcetto reds up its sleeve, it’s still considered a red wine region. But perhaps not for long. Many drinkers’ keen eyes, trained noses and thirsty palates are turning fast to its white wines as a change from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. In particular, to Gavi.

Gavi is an exciting discovery. Made from the Cortese grape around the town Gavi (Gavi DOCG), it’s a star that shines brightly, light-straw in colour. Its unusual for Italian whites steely acidity and cool, harmoniously-balanced and somewhat soothing elegant aromas and flavours won’t leave even a “chance visitor” unmoved. You may encounter some shortcomings, though – slightly lacking in fruit on the palate to balance the acidity or a marginally thinner body than you’d like. But there’s no need to be disheartened, they can easily be counter balanced by adequate chilling.

The first written reference to the Cortese grape goes back to the 17th century. It took over 300 years to create the Gavi DOC in Piedmont (in 1974) which was then changed to DOCG in 1998. The focus in the DOCG is on quality and about 95% of all the wines produced in the denomination may be tracked down to the producer.

Although the UK is not spoilt for choice as far as Gavi is concerned, there are a few typical and interesting samples available for the eager and discernible punter. Gavi can be enjoyed with creamy seafood or light chicken pastas, salads, asparagus, antipastas, soft creamy cheeses like feta, bleu d’Auvergne, gorgonzola piccante, brie and even cheddar, or just with dry fruit.

2005 Gavi (DOCG), Bricco Battistina, Araldica Vini Piemontesi SCARL Nelle Cantine di Castelboglione, 13% alcohol

(Majestic - £7.99, or £6.99 for two)

The grapes are hand picked from the oldest vines on the estate to produce this aromatic wine with pear, unripe peach, citrus and dry apricot aromas on the nose. 70% of the wine is fermented at a low temperature in a stainless steel tank and 30% is fermented and aged in new French oak barriques to add a richer texture and minerality. With high acidity, and a fuller than expected body for Gavi due to contact with oak and soft citrus and pear on the palate, it’s a bargain at £6.99.

2005 Gavi di Gavi (DOCG), La Toledana (single estate), Recolto tardivo (November 2005), Domini Villae Lanata, 13% alcohol

(Majestic - £8.49)

La Toledana was built in the first half of the 16th century. It has changed hands a few times since then and now belongs to Gianni Martini, the President of Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi and a Councillor for Unione Italiana Vini.

To give the wine complexity, a fuller body and some added tropical fruit flavours, the grapes were carefully handpicked in November. As a result, it’s slightly off-dry, has a smooth consistency, typical high acidity and can be enjoyed as an aperitif as well as with food.

2005 Gavi Del Comune Di Gavi (Gavi DOCG), Bric Sassi Della Maddalena Tenuta Menenti, Azienda Agricola Sarotto Roberto, - 13% alcohol

(BBR – £9.25)

With typical Gavi aromas on the nose and added minerality thanks to its contact with the lees up to bottling in the spring, the wine has a steely acidity balanced with soft pear and citrus flavours on the palate and a fuller, well-structured body and firm texture. It can be enjoyed on its own or with food.

2005 Gavi del commune Gavi (DOCG), Morgassi Superiore di Marino Piacitelli – alcohol – 12%

(Selfridges - £13.50)

With all the Gavi aromas in place, its watery consistency and too thin a body leave a bit more to be desired. Its high acidity has not much to be balanced with. Even the alcohol seems to be thinner than it claims to be. All this makes it a tad problematic to match this wine with food. Overpriced for what it is, it does go well with creamy soft cheeses.

There are some more Gavis available on the market for us to savour and enjoy. Alas, the summer has long since gone, for this refreshing and aromatic wine is a treat for a long summer evening or a hot lazy afternoon lunch. Fingers crossed, the next summer is but a steep climb over a short Christmas. And who said you can’t drink it on a cold night in a cosy warm room or by a mesmerizing fire? Try it and see.