Thursday, September 21, 2006

WHY NOT TRY THIS AT HOME?



Have you ever wondered what it’s like to blend your own wine? Well, it’s something like this.

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a seminar at Somerset House on blending claret given by one of the most respected authorities in the world: top master and true Gallic charmer Patrick Léon*. Over a 40-year career, Patrick has blended wine for some of the top wine makers in Bordeaux, including an 18-year stint at the Baron Philippe de Rothschild estate.

We were treated to a master class in blending the four classics: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, into a Bordeaux. First, we poured 50 ml of Cabernet Franc into a long, thin plastic tube. Then we added 100ml of Cabernet Sauvignon, placed a hand over the top of the tube and gave it a good shake. After this, we poured 50ml of the blend into a glass and got sniffing. The Cabernet Sauvignon did its work, imposing some authority on its little “cousin” Franc.

Now, back to the blend. In went 50ml of Merlot, to create in effect a blend of 22% Cabernet Franc, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. More shaking of the tube. More wine staining the white cloth. More embarrassed looks. 50ml made its way into a glass. The new blend was fuller and deeper. It had acquired a stronger body, a more colourful fruit character and a smoother tannin. It was perfectly pleasant to drink now. But now it was time for the “icing on the cake”. 4 measures of 2.5ml of Petit Verdot were added – an exaggerated amount for the benefit of novices’ noses and palates. And what a transformation it caused once it had been shaken! More complexity of flavours, a heavenly aroma, and definitely ready to drink. Now there was an authentic Bordeaux in the glass.

After the seminar, which lasted another ten minutes, I tried the blend again and discovered it was slowing evolving in the glass, acquiring even more attractive aromas, whilst what remained of the first blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon was slightly fading.

What fun it was to blend my own Bordeaux. So why not try it at home? Go out and buy a bottle of Cabernet Franc, a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a bottle of Merlot. You won’t, of course, fine a bottle of Petit Verdot, but you’ll still have great fun blending the three.

So to recap. Get yourself a plastic tube with measures on the side, first put in 50ml of Cabernet Franc, then add 100ml of Cabernet Sauvignon and give the tube a good shake. Pour out 50ml into a glass. Then add 50ml of Merlot, give it a few finishing shakes then pour it into the glass. You’ll be amazed at the result.

This unique seminar was part of The Everyday Bordeaux tasting event at Somerset House, which gave visitors the opportunity to taste 85 award winning wines priced from £5 to £15. All the wines presented were full of character, affordable and available in Britain.

The wines that most impressed me were, in no particular order:

2003 Averys Prestige, Bordeaux Supérieur, 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% alcohol - £8.50 at Avery’s Wine Merchant;

2000 Chateau Greysac, Cru Bourgeois, Medoc, 50% Merlot 40% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Cabernet Franc, 12.5% alcohol - £7.83 at Justerini & Brooks;

2001 Chateau de Lussac, Lussac Saint-Emilion, 80% Merlot 20 Cabernet Franc, 13% alcohol - £11.99 at Tesco;

2003 Chateau le Boscq, Saint-Estèphe, 60% Merlot 30% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alcohol - £15.00 at On Trade Outlets;

1999 Chateau Petit Bocq, Saint-Estèphe, 65% Merlot 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% alcohol - £15.19 at Justerini & Brooks;

2003 Chateau du Seuil Rouge, Graves, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon 45% Merlot, 12.5% alcohol - £14.99 at Virgin Wines, Big Red Wine Company, The Vintry, Manor House Wines

* Patrick Léon is now retired but he’s been running the Chateau Les Trois Croix together with his youngest son in Fronsac and their wines unsurprisingly are considered to be among the best in Fronsac. They are widely available in France, in the UK Chateau Les Trois Croix is available from Albany Vintners (en primeur at £99), from Fine and Rare Wines Limited and other suppliers.

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