WINE CONFIDENTIAL

THAT CUTE LITTLE YERING FROG

2006-11-16T09:13:00.000-08:00

“Every winemaker has a dog. At Yering we have a Frog.” That’s the story behind the name of the wine. Well, we have a frog as a pet of our own befriended when it was discovered under a beautiful Rodochiton shrub some five years ago. The shrub has long since gone but we call the froggy Rodick in its memory. He never got to like the name but no matter. It’s fond of a little cosy shrub by the back door on the patio. Every summer it’s back there to keep us company as we quaff our favourite wines or discover new ones. It watches us bemused and sometimes tries to butt in with its friendly croaking message. Sorry, Rodick, we don’t always understand the message you’re trying to convey but we always appreciate your company, so we raise our glasses to your next arrival in May with a glass from your froggy cousin Down Under.

2005 Yering Frog, Yering Station, Shiraz/Viognier, Yarra Valley, Australia – 14.5% alcohol
(Majestic £6.99, or £5.99 if you buy two)

A little sibling of the Yering Station Shiraz/Viognier, Yering Frog shows typical Shiraz flavours of blackberries and spice on the nose tamed by a bit of earthiness and refreshed by soft mint and some floral notes derived from Viognier. Well structured and balanced with good acidity, it’s easy to drink and very impressive. The tannin is young but very palate-friendly and calls out for some beef. But if you are not a regular beef-eater and have only a few minutes to spare, try this recipe which, even if not ideal to accompany the Frog, will still do the trick. Finish the meal off with cheddar as we did, this time with Westcombe. Bearing in mind the price tag and the joy it gives, you can’t go wrong with a cute little Yering Frog, even if it’s not as cute as ours.

Cheerio!

Chicken breasts for 2 – preparation time 3 minutes; cooking time – 16 minutes

Ingredients: 2 chicken breasts, 4-6 smoked streaky bacon rashers; salt, freshly ground black pepper, chopped fresh (or dry) herbs: parsley, coriander leaves; 1 tbsp of olive oil

1) Heat the olive oil in a frying pan with an oven-proof handle (medium heat);
2) Pre-heat oven to 200°C/Gas 6
3) Sprinkle the chicken breasts with salt, freshly ground black pepper, parsley, coriander leaves on both sides;
4) Wrap up neatly each chicken breast in bacon rashers;
5) Fry the chicken breasts in the frying pan for 3 min, turning once;
6) Place the frying pan with the chicken breasts in a pre-heated oven for 13 minutes;
7) Take the frying pan out of the oven - use special oven gloves or a thick towel;
8) Serve with salad, saffron rice or pasta and a glass of wine.

IMMORTAL CHEDDAR

2006-11-09T16:38:00.000-08:00

Do you believe in the Cheddar Man? Well, I do. I’ve seen him at Cheddar Gorge: seemingly small and insignificant in his last resting place deep under the ground, he’s quite possibly the most powerful man to have lived ever. The Cheddar Man was discovered in 1903 in one of Cheddar Gorge's caves, as “the earliest whole skeleton in Britain”. He lived 9,000 years ago and met a grizzly end on a stick, eaten by cannibals, local or outsiders. Were they cheesed off with him or just greedy? We’ll never know. They’re long gone. But Cheddar Man’s bones have been left to posterity. It was recently discovered through DNA tests that the Cheddar Man was a tough guy and his blood still runs in the veins of people living in Cheddar today. Wouldn’t we all like to have his power of survival?

And Cheddar Man isn’t the only thing to be made in Cheddar which was destined for immortality. There’s also cheddar cheese. In 1727, Daniel Defoe wrote, “….without any dispute, it is the best cheese that England affords if not that the whole world affords.” And how the kings loved it! King Henry II in the XII century bought tonnes and tonnes of it, so did his son. And every king since has following suit. Indeed, there was a time when the Palace was the only place a man could get a piece of cheddar. It was truly the cheese of kings and it still is the King of Cheeses.

The best traditional cheddars come from Somerset in the West Country - Keen’s Cheddar, Montgomery’s (strictly traditional) Cheddar and Westcombe Cheddar. Their winning formula lies in their simplicity: just unpasteurised milk, salt and animal rennet. Sorry, vegetarians! The result is stunning: complex flavours and a firm texture which miraculously melts in the mouth and a long lasting finish like a top quality wine.

Cheddar has a love affair with almost every wine. Whether it be fine or affordable, elegant or daily, white or red, it’s one of very few cheeses which does not discriminate and is not discriminated by any wine. It complements fine wines unobtrusively and enhances the ones that need their spirits lifted. Try it first with Cabernet Sauvignon, Rioja, Riesling, Gavi, and Pinot Grigio.

Neal's Yard Dairy, in London, stocks every cheddar you’ll ever need.

Montgomery’s, 18 months matured, went exquisitely well with today’s wine:

2005 Villa Flora, Lugana DOC, Zenato Peschiera del Garda, 13% alcohol. Limited edition, all the bottles are numbered.
(Waitrose - £5.99, £5.69 online)

Light gold in colour to lift your spirit on a chilly winter evening, with uncomplicated soft pear and white flowers aromas on the nose and elderflower and light fruit on the palate, it’s well balanced with good acidity and the texture is smooth and seemingly a tad oily. The wine is made from Trebbiano of Lugana which grows on the southern shore of Lake Garda, as the locals believe, since the Bronze Age. Azienda Zenato was founded by Sergio Zenato in 1960. He still runs the winery together with his children Alberto and Nadia.

The wine goes well with fish, seafood and cheeses. Very good as an aperitif.

THINGS LOOKING UP FOR STANLAKE

2006-10-23T15:54:00.000-07:00

English wine is no longer shy and boring. It’s evolving, pleasing to the nose and palate. Although it’s still got some way to go, it won’t be long before we’ll all be drinking it by the bucketful and enjoying the aromas of local honeysuckle, elderflowers, apples, raspberries and strawberries alike.

I recently popped into the Stanlake Park Wine Estate in Twyford (Berkshire, UK) formerly known as Thames Valley Vineyards, then Valley Vineyards, to see if any progress had been made since my last visit ten years ago. On that occasion, I bought a couple of very disappointing bottles of wine. What a difference a decade makes. You can now choose from sparkling, white, rosé and red, including a Pinot Noir made a few times in the last 20 years which is available in their shop at a price (£19.49).

The Stanlake Park Estate is full of history, with tales of kings, traitors and heroes. But for the last 27 years the focus has been on wine. The vineyards cover 25 acres with over 30,000 vines planted. Their wines have received awards from the UK Vineyards Association and from the International Wine Challenge. Apparently, the King’s Fumé is now served at the Dorchester Hotel in London.

I tasted five different wines: three whites, one red and one rosé. These are the two I liked:

2005 Pinot Blush, (Dry Rosé Wine) English Regional Wine, Stanlake Park Wine Estate, Twyford, 11.5% alcohol - £6.99 in the Stanlake Park shop and some local supermarkets

Made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Ehrenfelser and Scheurebe, it’s rosy pink and raspberry on the nose. There was a slight problem for the first 5-8 minutes when the wine seemed to be flat on the palate (possibly, due to too low a level of carbon dioxide) only to reveal a very pleasant raspberry and some savoury flavours with lively acidity a few minutes later. It was well structured with a good body and went well with light chicken pasta sprinkled with parmesan cheese and salads, including beetroot. It’s a very satisfying wine and can be happily drunk as an aperitif. Would I choose it before a French or Spanish rose? Definitely maybe!

1999 Kings Fumé, (oak aged) English Regional Wine, Stanlake Park Wine Estate, Twyford, 11.5% alcohol - £9.99 in the Stanlake Park shop

Named in honour of King Charles I who is thought to have donated a special window dated 1626 and signed “Dieu et mon Droit” to Stanlake Park Estate. The wine is made from “roughly equal proportions of Ortega, Regner, Scheurebe and Bacchus grapes”, aged in French Oak casks and matured in the bottle for a few years.

With smoke and soft elderflower on the nose, the wine seemed to have passed its best. The colour of a matured sauternes, it looked a tad odd next to a creamy chicken pasta, although surprisingly, they did go well together. The wine was smooth, creamy and smoky on the palate. A bit insipid but very drinkable and still pleasant, I wish I could have had it two-three years ago. It can be drunk as an aperitif, but is also good with cheeses: dolcevita, cheddar and Dutch Gouda. Disappointingly, just before the bottle was finished the wine developed a stale, old wine smell.

Next summer, I’ll definitely buy more of their rosé and probably drink some of their other wines. With the climate steadily improving temperature-wise, along with experience and expertise, the future of English wine looks rosy. Roll on English wine!

THE WHITE STAR GAVI IN THE LAND OF THE REDS

2006-10-16T09:12:00.000-07:00

Old habits die hard. When I think of Italian wine, I still can’t help thinking of red. But there’s more to Italy than that. What better place to start than in Piedmont, being one of the top wine producing areas in Italy with 50 different DOC(G) in the region. Admittedly, with Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Dolcetto reds up its sleeve, it’s still considered a red wine region. But perhaps not for long. Many drinkers’ keen eyes, trained noses and thirsty palates are turning fast to its white wines as a change from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. In particular, to Gavi.

Gavi is an exciting discovery. Made from the Cortese grape around the town Gavi (Gavi DOCG), it’s a star that shines brightly, light-straw in colour. Its unusual for Italian whites steely acidity and cool, harmoniously-balanced and somewhat soothing elegant aromas and flavours won’t leave even a “chance visitor” unmoved. You may encounter some shortcomings, though – slightly lacking in fruit on the palate to balance the acidity or a marginally thinner body than you’d like. But there’s no need to be disheartened, they can easily be counter balanced by adequate chilling.

The first written reference to the Cortese grape goes back to the 17th century. It took over 300 years to create the Gavi DOC in Piedmont (in 1974) which was then changed to DOCG in 1998. The focus in the DOCG is on quality and about 95% of all the wines produced in the denomination may be tracked down to the producer.

Although the UK is not spoilt for choice as far as Gavi is concerned, there are a few typical and interesting samples available for the eager and discernible punter. Gavi can be enjoyed with creamy seafood or light chicken pastas, salads, asparagus, antipastas, soft creamy cheeses like feta, bleu d’Auvergne, gorgonzola piccante, brie and even cheddar, or just with dry fruit.

2005 Gavi (DOCG), Bricco Battistina, Araldica Vini Piemontesi SCARL Nelle Cantine di Castelboglione, 13% alcohol

(Majestic - £7.99, or £6.99 for two)

The grapes are hand picked from the oldest vines on the estate to produce this aromatic wine with pear, unripe peach, citrus and dry apricot aromas on the nose. 70% of the wine is fermented at a low temperature in a stainless steel tank and 30% is fermented and aged in new French oak barriques to add a richer texture and minerality. With high acidity, and a fuller than expected body for Gavi due to contact with oak and soft citrus and pear on the palate, it’s a bargain at £6.99.

2005 Gavi di Gavi (DOCG), La Toledana (single estate), Recolto tardivo (November 2005), Domini Villae Lanata, 13% alcohol

(Majestic - £8.49)

La Toledana was built in the first half of the 16th century. It has changed hands a few times since then and now belongs to Gianni Martini, the President of Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi and a Councillor for Unione Italiana Vini.

To give the wine complexity, a fuller body and some added tropical fruit flavours, the grapes were carefully handpicked in November. As a result, it’s slightly off-dry, has a smooth consistency, typical high acidity and can be enjoyed as an aperitif as well as with food.

2005 Gavi Del Comune Di Gavi (Gavi DOCG), Bric Sassi Della Maddalena Tenuta Menenti, Azienda Agricola Sarotto Roberto, - 13% alcohol

(BBR – £9.25)

With typical Gavi aromas on the nose and added minerality thanks to its contact with the lees up to bottling in the spring, the wine has a steely acidity balanced with soft pear and citrus flavours on the palate and a fuller, well-structured body and firm texture. It can be enjoyed on its own or with food.

2005 Gavi del commune Gavi (DOCG), Morgassi Superiore di Marino Piacitelli – alcohol – 12%

(Selfridges - £13.50)

With all the Gavi aromas in place, its watery consistency and too thin a body leave a bit more to be desired. Its high acidity has not much to be balanced with. Even the alcohol seems to be thinner than it claims to be. All this makes it a tad problematic to match this wine with food. Overpriced for what it is, it does go well with creamy soft cheeses.

There are some more Gavis available on the market for us to savour and enjoy. Alas, the summer has long since gone, for this refreshing and aromatic wine is a treat for a long summer evening or a hot lazy afternoon lunch. Fingers crossed, the next summer is but a steep climb over a short Christmas. And who said you can’t drink it on a cold night in a cosy warm room or by a mesmerizing fire? Try it and see.

HEAVENLY TANNAT AND MALBEC

2006-10-05T16:15:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, at the South-West Wines (of France) tasting in London, the lost son of France, Malbec, aka Cot Noir or Auxerrois, was King, along with another powerful but modest charmer, Tannat. It wasn’t a huge show, but it was highly memorable on the palate.

There were two wines that stood out at the show (both by Producteurs Plaimont): 2001 Plénitude, Madiran AOC - 80% Tannat, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; 28 days maceration; 18 months in new oak – nearly black in colour, youthful, rich and powerful, tannic but without a trace of harshness, with a superbly balanced structure and intense aromas, it’s already available in London at Mill Hill Wines, Bedale Street Wine (Southwark) and City Beverages at about £14.00. Try also Rare and Fine Wines.

And… 2000 Viella Village, Madiran AOC (60% Tannat and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon – made with overripe berries (harvested 2 weeks after full ripeness is achieved), aged 10 months in oak – rich, well structured and balanced, another treat from Plaimont - also available in Bedale Street, City Beverages and Mill Hill Wines at about £13.00.

Both wines go well with duck, lamb, stews and other rich meat dishes.

A pleasant surprise was a desert beverage Rogomme made from Malbec to the 300-year-old recipe of Quercy by Chateau de Chambert to perfection. Packed with the intense but tender aromas of prunes, plums, figs, well-integrated spices, it overwhelms you once it’s in the glass. It fills your mouth with soft sweetness, a silky texture and heavenly flavours and warms your throat, caresses your mind and relaxes your body. Rogomme is a wine- based aperitif and can be served as such, as well as a desert wine.

Chateau de Chambert also make wonderfully aromatic and well structured, real Malbec treats: special cuvée - 2002 Orphée, Cahors AOC (100% Malbec; maturation -18 months in oak, bottled without fining or filtering); and 2003 Chateau Carlat, Cahors AOC (75% Malbec, 20% Merlot, 9% Tannat; fermented with natural yeast; maturation – 12 months in oak, bottled without fining or filtering).

Chateaux de Chambert and Carlat cultivate their vineyards according to the guidelines set out by the International Organisation for Biological and Integrated Control and don’t use weed killers. Many of their wines are fermented with natural yeast and bottled without fining or filtering.

THE EVER ELUSIVE PINOT GRIGIO

2006-10-01T15:43:00.000-07:00

It seems a long time now since I first embarked on my search for the perfect Pinot Grigio. Alas, my search and my attempt to unravel the mystery of its popularity have so far drawn blanks. All I’ve encountered is wine which is insipid, colourless, lacking in character, elegance, class and power. But surprise, surprise, it still enjoys its happy hour. Punters in droves seek it out in bars and restaurants and it flies off the shelves faster than you can unload the box.

Anyway, out of all the Grigios I’ve tasted recently there are three which stand out, for various reasons:

2005 San Angelo Pinot Grigio, Castello BANFI, Toscana IGT, Tuscany– 12.5% alcohol
(Majestic - £7.99)

Quite intense citrus on the nose and watery citrus and caramelised acidity on the palate, its charms are modest, uninspiring, plain. Surely BANFI could have done better. It goes well with fish, seafood pasta and soft cheeses, like dolcevita.

2005 Enofriulia (EF) Pinot Grigio, Puiatti, Collio DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) – 12% alcohol – my top choice thus far
(Sainsbury’s - £9.99, currently under offer £8.99)

When you get over the shock of the bright yellow plastic cork, you discover an elegant wine. It comes from the right region for this variety: Collio of Friuli-Venezia Guilia. The wine is a rewarding experience with soft citrus, underripe apricot, peach and pear notes on the nose. It’s well balanced, elegantly structured and its citrusy and pear flavours, although not very pronounced on the palate, make it a pleasure to drink with fish, seafood creamy pastas, soft cheeses and even cheddar.

Sainsbury’s also sells 2004 Enofriulia Pinot Grigio but since it may also have a plastic cork, it’s better to steer away from it. As research shows, a wine can safely keep under a plastic cork for no more than 12 months. You have been warned.

2004 Pinot Grigio, Lis Neris, Alvaro Pecorari, Venezia Giulia IGT, Italy, 14% alcohol
(Berry Bros & Rudd - £11.95)

This wine also comes from Friulli. Aromatic as it is, the flavours of peach, pear and a tad floral on the nose and peach on the palate are a bit simple, and the structure is slightly thinner than what you think it should be. But it does have plenty of flavours for a change and went down very nicely with a creamy prawn pasta. BBR now has 2005 Pinot Grigio, Lis Neris priced at £12.95, and also a special cuvée 2004 Cris-Pinot Grigio, Lis Neris at £14.50.

So… I’ve been there, done that, got the T-shirt et al and frankly, Pinot Grigio is not something I will be craving for in the near future. But, never say never. I’ve spotted a few more samples of this varietal, so I may well take the plunge once again. But then again, there’s so much more interesting wine out there to taste and enjoy. Why bother?

LONDON TESCO WINE CLUB FAIR: EVERY TIPPLE HELPS

2006-09-24T05:56:00.000-07:00

The London Tesco Wine Club Fair is a well-established annual event which never disappoints. More informal than the invitation-only events, it’s a great opportunity for all wine lovers, experts and amateurs alike, to discover some great bargains and have a great time while they’re at it. There were about 300 wines and beers available for tasting and everyone got stuck in. The event was superbly organised and the highlight of the day were the master classes run by Charles Metcalfe, Co-Chairman of the International Wine Challenge. Highly entertaining, engaging and informative.

The wine of the day for me was Tesco Finest San Juan Shiraz 2005 produced by Bodegas Salentein (Angentina). Priced at £7.99, it’s currently on offer in a special promotion (50% discount) and with all the discounts available on the day, was being sold for a staggering £3.60 a bottle!

It may not be like the Shiraz you’ve become accustomed to. It’s not a broad-beamed, upfront Shiraz which puts some drinkers off the varietal. Nor will you be overwhelmed by the heady concentration of flavours and body and broad rounded tannin typical of an everyday Australian Shiraz or one produced in a warm climate. Moreover, having the fruit character typical of the varietal, it’s been nicely matched by Tesco with their Finest Mature Blue Stilton. The sweetness of the fruit, spicyness and well-integrated soft but gripping tannin underpinned by a good structure and well balanced acidity make it a good alternative to Port. The wine comes from the San Juan region, the second most important region in Argentina, and is now available in store at £3.99 and on line at £3.79 while the promotion lasts.

The Bodegas Salentein are located high in the mountains in the Mendoza region and the producers are now among the up and coming Argentinian stars. Their wines made from Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay have won many awards in the last few years including Decanter’s (2006), International Wine Challenge (2002 and 2001), the International Wine & Spirit Competition in Bordeaux (2001) and they are highly praised by wine critics all over the world. Their wines are represented in the UK by D&D Wines International Ltd.

2005 Tesco Finest San Juan Shiraz, Bodegas Salentein, San Juan, Argentina, 13.5% alcohol

(Tesco - £7.99; currently - £3.99; or Tesco.com Festival - £3.79)

WHY NOT TRY THIS AT HOME?

2006-09-21T09:59:00.000-07:00

Have you ever wondered what it’s like to blend your own wine? Well, it’s something like this.

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a seminar at Somerset House on blending claret given by one of the most respected authorities in the world: top master and true Gallic charmer Patrick Léon*. Over a 40-year career, Patrick has blended wine for some of the top wine makers in Bordeaux, including an 18-year stint at the Baron Philippe de Rothschild estate.

We were treated to a master class in blending the four classics: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, into a Bordeaux. First, we poured 50 ml of Cabernet Franc into a long, thin plastic tube. Then we added 100ml of Cabernet Sauvignon, placed a hand over the top of the tube and gave it a good shake. After this, we poured 50ml of the blend into a glass and got sniffing. The Cabernet Sauvignon did its work, imposing some authority on its little “cousin” Franc.

Now, back to the blend. In went 50ml of Merlot, to create in effect a blend of 22% Cabernet Franc, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. More shaking of the tube. More wine staining the white cloth. More embarrassed looks. 50ml made its way into a glass. The new blend was fuller and deeper. It had acquired a stronger body, a more colourful fruit character and a smoother tannin. It was perfectly pleasant to drink now. But now it was time for the “icing on the cake”. 4 measures of 2.5ml of Petit Verdot were added – an exaggerated amount for the benefit of novices’ noses and palates. And what a transformation it caused once it had been shaken! More complexity of flavours, a heavenly aroma, and definitely ready to drink. Now there was an authentic Bordeaux in the glass.

After the seminar, which lasted another ten minutes, I tried the blend again and discovered it was slowing evolving in the glass, acquiring even more attractive aromas, whilst what remained of the first blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon was slightly fading.

What fun it was to blend my own Bordeaux. So why not try it at home? Go out and buy a bottle of Cabernet Franc, a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a bottle of Merlot. You won’t, of course, fine a bottle of Petit Verdot, but you’ll still have great fun blending the three.

So to recap. Get yourself a plastic tube with measures on the side, first put in 50ml of Cabernet Franc, then add 100ml of Cabernet Sauvignon and give the tube a good shake. Pour out 50ml into a glass. Then add 50ml of Merlot, give it a few finishing shakes then pour it into the glass. You’ll be amazed at the result.

This unique seminar was part of The Everyday Bordeaux tasting event at Somerset House, which gave visitors the opportunity to taste 85 award winning wines priced from £5 to £15. All the wines presented were full of character, affordable and available in Britain.

The wines that most impressed me were, in no particular order:

2003 Averys Prestige, Bordeaux Supérieur, 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% alcohol - £8.50 at Avery’s Wine Merchant;

2000 Chateau Greysac, Cru Bourgeois, Medoc, 50% Merlot 40% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Cabernet Franc, 12.5% alcohol - £7.83 at Justerini & Brooks;

2001 Chateau de Lussac, Lussac Saint-Emilion, 80% Merlot 20 Cabernet Franc, 13% alcohol - £11.99 at Tesco;

2003 Chateau le Boscq, Saint-Estèphe, 60% Merlot 30% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alcohol - £15.00 at On Trade Outlets;

1999 Chateau Petit Bocq, Saint-Estèphe, 65% Merlot 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% alcohol - £15.19 at Justerini & Brooks;

2003 Chateau du Seuil Rouge, Graves, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon 45% Merlot, 12.5% alcohol - £14.99 at Virgin Wines, Big Red Wine Company, The Vintry, Manor House Wines

* Patrick Léon is now retired but he’s been running the Chateau Les Trois Croix together with his youngest son in Fronsac and their wines unsurprisingly are considered to be among the best in Fronsac. They are widely available in France, in the UK Chateau Les Trois Croix is available from Albany Vintners (en primeur at £99), from Fine and Rare Wines Limited and other suppliers.

THE CINDERELLA OF PIEDMONT

2006-09-11T04:30:00.000-07:00

The life of a vine is never stagnant. It goes through stages. A vine is born, it’s nurtured like a child, in its “green years”, then goes through adolescence before finally becoming a responsible adult. It grows old, hopefully, gracefully, and dies exhausted and worn out. It shuts down if it’s not comfortable but flourishes when loved. Sometimes it’s a king and sometimes Cinderella.

It’s not a king, well… not yet (or a queen, as the locals would have liked), but Barbera is no longer a step-daughter, poor and despised. Although officially mentioned only in the 17th century, it’s been grown in Piedmont, Italy, since time immemorial. This uncomplicated wine has been quaffed by the locals for aeons but not many outsiders have bothered to notice its modest charms. It used to be acidic, harsh and unclean, albeit very cheap. But the times have changed for outsiders and producers alike. Barbera slowly and surely is creeping into our lives. Now it is one of the top red wine grapes in Piedmont, and… you guessed it, it’s no longer cheap. There are two appellations for this variety in Piedmont: Barbera d’Asti DOC (made in Asti) and Barbera d’Alba DOC (made in Alba). Barbera wines are produced in two styles: to be consumed young and an oaked version which requires ageing.

Low tannic with high but well-balanced acidity and light body, it displays ripe cherry and harmonious oak on the nose; the finish is smooth with pleasant and long sour cherry flavours on the palate. Quaffing and moreish, it goes well with red-sauce pasta, antipasti, risottos and many other dishes.

2004 Barbera d’Asti DOC, De Forville, Piedmont, Italy – 13.5%

(Majestic – £9.39)

Try also Oddbins for Barbera d’Asti Il Monello, Cantina Braida (£7.99) produced in a limited quantity by the company. Il Monello is a sibling of La Monella, also made from the Barbera grape. Cantina Braida is one of the original and best producers of Barbera wines and famous for its quintessential, top quality wines Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma and Barbera d'Asti Bricco dell’Uccellone. Sadly, Il Monello failed to leave a lasting impression on this occasion.

And just a few words on Chianti. Can you really go wrong with it? You can if you rely solely on your own logic, which tells you, commercial as it is, Castello BANFI is your safe option: big name, clean and modern facilities. Well…

BANFI is proud to say that Chianti possesses a “unique personality”. The personality of the Chianti we had was a bit disorientated, poorly structured and seemingly unbalanced – not a wine you’d like to make friends with. Worse still, priced at £8.49, it’s hardly good value for money.

2004 Chianti Classico DOCG, BANFI, Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 12.5%
(Majestic -£8.49)

BOROUGH CONFIDENTIAL

2006-08-31T08:13:00.000-07:00

Discovered by a tip-off, there is a magical wine shop tucked away in one of the back streets near Borough Tube station, not far from the excellent Borough market. Waterloo Wine is based in a former warehouse which was developed into apartments not long ago. The shop, trading since 1982, invites you in, doors wide open, into what looks like a slightly dusty wine cellar. Dark shelves, or rather cubicles, hold some rare and delicious wines, many at bargain prices: superb samples from top producers in the Loire Valley, including star-buys from Prince Poniatowski’s cellar, quality Rieslings from Germany and Alsace, a large selection of Austrian wines, New Zealand wine and many more.

Founded by a co-owner of the Kiwi Wairapa West winery, their philosophy is mainly to work directly with family owned estates, bypassing intermediaries - hence the attractive prices. They act as wholesalers as well as retailers.

Thanks to their philosophy, many brands are available year after year, which makes it possible to conduct comparative studies of vintages or how a wine can develop in the bottle by buying consecutive vintages by the same producers. So you can experiment in the comfort of your home and share your experience with your friends and other wine lovers.

Make your way to Waterloo Wine on Friday or on a Saturday morning when you can enjoy Borough market too, which sells a host of gourmet delights. Buy yourself a few treats as you soak up the market’s electrifying atmosphere or have a leisurely meal in one of the many restaurants, oyster bars, pubs and cafes, old and new. And if you feel like spoiling yourself, pop into the wine museum Vinopolis to tickle your taste buds even further. And don’t forget to check out the bargains at Majestic, next door.

To fully enjoy the experience, allow yourself 5 to 6 hours.

YERING OF OZ

2006-08-28T04:10:00.000-07:00

Alas, the previous entry resolution has been broken without remorse. The Italian study case will have to wait while I go Australian. And who’s to blame? Was it really possible to resist something which is getting hotter and hotter in London? A must to try before it flies off the shelves without even a chance to fully mature.

Submitted by Sainsbury’s and Yering Station to the International Wine and Spirit Competition, 2004 Yering Station Shiraz Viognier took Gold Best in Class Award this summer in London which means it received “the highest mark in its respective category”. Shiraz co-fermented with 5% Viognier to add finesse and texture is not trying to compete with the real thing from Cote-Rotie but it’s delicious and smooth, and, priced at £9.99, won’t burn a hole in your pocket.

Purple with garnet on the rim; ripe blackberry, soft pepper, liquorice and mild oak, refined with fine dark chocolate and floral notes on the nose; black fruit, chocolate and spice with well-balanced and integrated tannin and acidity on the palate, it’s an elegant cool-climate-character Shiraz with a good length destined to make your everyday meal a festive event, and it won’t be out of place at a special occasion, either.

It goes well with… well (hmm)… anything, be it a slice of ham or chicken, egg mayonnaise (!) or a pork pie, but will be at its best with grilled and roasted meats and poultry, casseroles, sausages and many cheeses.

Yering Station was first planted with vine by a Scot, William Ryrie, in 1838. 50 years later it was awarded a Grand Prix at the World Exhibition in Paris but then went into a slow decline followed by virtual oblivion until its gradual revival in the 1970s. 1996 saw Yering Station happily change hands - the mighty Rathbones took over the little kingdom.

Their wines don’t gather dust now thanks to their award winning winemaker, Tom Carson, and his team, be it Pinot Noir, rosé or red, or blend of the Rhone white all-stars Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, so that Channel 4 charmers, Richard and Judy, also sing odes to the wines of the former cattle farm in the Yarra Valley.

2004 Yering Station Shiraz Viognier, Yarra Valley, Australia – 14.5% alcohol.

(Sainsbury’s - £9.99, try also Majestic - £9.99)

ITALIAN ODYSSEY

2006-08-20T14:35:00.000-07:00

Whenever I fancy an Italian wine, I always think of Chianti or Valpolicella. Now that’s what I call a chronic lack of imagination when you consider Italy boasts more than 1,000 grape varieties and makes many more different wines. So feeling a tad more ambitious, I decided to break the routine and plunge into something inspirational and exciting from the country of Bacchus. I chose a red Bardolino from the shores of the beautiful Lake Garda, hoping that its vibrant and young acidity would send my taste buds soaring. Alas, it failed to excite or boost my spirit. It was tame and timid, but luckily complemented our pasta with a light tomato sauce well.

2003 Bardolino Classico DOC (Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara), Tedeschi, Veneto – 12% - to be served chilled at 12°

After dessert – raspberry and blackberry soufflé – I realised that it was time I went on an Italian odyssey to get some idea of the range of vignoble delights the country has to offer. So after a lot of head scratching, I’ve settled on the following twelve wines for my case to be tried before I can even begin to feel I have some grasp of Italian wine:

1. Barolo (Nebbiolo grape), Piemonte
2. Barbera d’Asti, (Barbera grape), Piemonte
3. Gavi (Cortese grape), Piemonte
4. Friulano (Friulano), Friuli-Venezia Guilia, Collio
5. Amarone della Valpolicella (Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara), Veneto
6. Nero d'Avola (Nero d'Avola), Sicily
7. Rosso di Montalchino (Sangiovese), Tuscany
8. Pinot Grigio
9. Aglianico del Vulture (Aglianico grape), Basilicata
10. Soave Superiore (Garganega), Veneto
11. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Montepulciano), Abruzzo
12. Frascati (Malvasia, Trebbiano), Latium

Unfortunately, Super-Tuscans and Brunello de Montalcino have to be excluded until next time, for budgetary reasons. Wish me luck!

TAVEL - FIT FOR A KING

2006-08-13T04:18:00.000-07:00

Legend has it that in the 13th century a king passing through the village of Tavel in the Rhone Valley exclaimed as he tasted the local wine, “There is no good wine but that of Tavel!”. So it’s no surprise that the French elite and aristocracy developed a soft spot for this lavish wine with its intense lush colour of ripe strawberry. And such is the affection of the arts world for Tavel wine in France that in 1987 the administrators of the Comedie Française sponsored the design of a new bottle, which won award for Best Package later that year.

Unlike other rosés, Tavel can be enjoyed all year round, and it boasts the distinction of being the one rosé that is a constant feature of the menu in all prestigious restaurants in France.

The Tavel appellation was created in 1936 exclusively for rosé. The Tavelois were convinced as early as the 16th century that the unique lause and galets terroir was perfect for rosé and nothing else. A blend of black and white varieties in different proportions, no one grape should exceed 60% in the blend. There are only about 30 producers of Tavel and about 80% of the total production is consumed on the domestic market.

2005 CHATEAU d’AQUERIA, Tavel AOC, Grenache, Cinsault and Clairette, 13.5% alcohol – Serve at 12°

Soft strawberry, white pepper and slightly flinty on the nose; red cherry, strawberry and spice on the palate with well balanced acidity and a touch of tannin, elegant and marked with finesse. It goes well with chicken, grilled salmon, various vegetarian dishes, appetisers and salads.

(Majestic – £9.45; with any 2 rosés – £7.55; Waitrose – 2005 “Les Vallognes” by Chateau d’Aqueria - £8.99)

2004 DOMAINE DU PRIEURÉ, Tavel AOC, Montezargues Proprietaires Recoltants (Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette), 13.5% alcohol – serve at 12°. Well structured and elegant, it has similar qualities and aromas to the Chateau d’Aqueria.

(Nicola - £10.99, Uncorked in the City - £9.99 for 2005 Prieuré De Montezargues)

A Quick Recipe for the King’s Rosé: Grilled Salmon.

2 salmon fillets, a little olive oil, freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon, salt and freshly ground black paper to taste – serves 2 (preparation and cooking time approx 20 mins)

1. Pre-heat the grill (mark 4)
2. Brush with olive oil on both sides and sprinkle with salt, and pepper;
3. Put salmon fillets on a grill tray;
4. Squeeze lemon juice on the fillets;
5. Put the tray under the grill for 8-9 min turning once, whilst turning squeeze some lemon juice on the other side;
6. Serve with new boiled potatoes and salad

Salad: put in a bowl a handful of baby leaf lettuce + baby apollo lettuce + red chard (or iceberg lettuce), baby cos leaves, some rocket, carrot and shredded red cabbage; sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste; cut 1 tomato and squeeze the juice onto the bowl - discard the flesh; sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil; mix well and serve with grilled salmon.

ROSÉ ITALIANO

2006-08-09T16:18:00.000-07:00

Today, I fancied a change. I decided to go Italian and check out one of their modest rosés.

2005 CAVALCHINA, Bardolino Chiaretto DOC (rosé), 12% - serve chilled at 12°

(Majestic - £5.99; £4.99 – with any 2 rosé)

It’s made near the picturesque Lake Garda in the Bardolino region from the same grape varieties as Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Brilliant rose water in colour, it’s slightly off-dry and its delicate soft cherry aromas and flavours on the nose and palate and well-balanced as if caramelised acidity, makes it an ideal refreshingly delicious aperitif. You can sip on it for ever. It purports to be quite alcoholic at 12% - I have my doubts. But does it really matter? Less is more when the sun is shining and the sky is blue.

It goes well with mildly flavoured food and appetisers, is perfect with light tomato pasta and pizzas of the not so spicy variety. And when it comes to cheesecake, a nice berry one will do, such as the Very Berry Cheesecake from M&S. And finally… it goes very nicely with a slice of Cheddar cheese.

P.S. If you’re a Londoner, Majestic near Borough Market is the only Majestic in the UK which sells its goodies by the bottle rather than by the case.

REDISCOVERING CABERNET

2006-08-06T07:09:00.000-07:00

How many times have you faced this problem? You want to taste something special. Does it mean pricey, original or something you’ve never tried before? Well, you could do a lot worse than rediscover the thick-skinned classic grape of the Medoc, Cabernet Sauvignon, now planted throughout the New World. Try 1999 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, one of the hottest spots for this black variety. Priced at £11.99, it’s not particularly cheap, but bearing in mind that in any London “reasonable” restaurant the cheapest plonk will set you back at least £13.00, it’s a real bargain.

Garnet in colour, smoky, with tobacco and black fruit aromas on the nose, its well balanced tannin and cherry and blackcurrant flavours on the palate will make you want to repeat the experience again and again. So, steady yourself, take a deep breath and let your journey into the wonderful world of Cabernet Sauvignon begin anew.

1999 BERINGER Vineyards, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Appellation Collection, 13.5% alcohol.

(Majestic - £11.99; 2 in a case -£9.99; Thresher – £10.99)

Another Cabernet treat is the 2001 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon which comes from another Cabernet classic region – Coonawarra in Australia with its terra rossa soil designed to produce a powerful and delicious wine.

Dark ruby with garnet rim in colour, with strong blackcurrant, cherry and dry mint on the nose and plenty of black fruit on the palate, it will give you a little lift and grace any occasion.

2001 WYNNS Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia, 14% alcohol.

(Oddbins - £10.00, try also Majestic, for other suppliers in the UK and USA, search on www.wine-searcher.com)

If you can afford to splash out about £30, treat yourself to 1998 Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, Australia 13.5% alcohol (Tesco, Oddbins)

And finally…
Cabernet Sauvignon goes well with grilled and roasted meats; also with cheeses: gruyere, red Leicester and cheddar, and, surprisingly, with green or black olives.

Cheers!

ODE TO ALBARIÑO

2006-07-31T03:33:00.000-07:00

Deep down we are all poets. Only sometimes we need to be reminded of this or inspired by something. And what better inspiration than Albariño? Say it with gusto: alba-riño or whisper it slowly: AL-BA-RI-ÑO. It sounds like music to your ears. Well, at least, to mine.

It’s a joy to the palate, too. Aromatic, vibrant and delicious, lemon in colour and so bright that it’s almost translucent, with distinctive flavours of peach and citrus on the nose and palate, and a smooth, nearly silky texture, well-balanced, with acidity. It’s ideal on its own or with cooked prawns (but not with chilli!), other shellfish and seafood or with cooked or grilled white fish and lightly seasoned fresh green salad with olive oil on a hot summer’s day or a sultry, romantic evening. It also goes well with brie, mild cheddar, Norwegian Jarlsberg and other mild flavoured cheeses. And if you really can’t resist some cheesecake, spoil yourself with Zesty Lemon Cheesecake from M&S. It goes down nicely with a glass of chilled Albariño.

As some stories have it, this small white grape with a thick skin may have come to Galicia in northwest Spain originally from the Rhine, but the locals think otherwise. Albariño is guzzled up by the locals and tourists alike, leaving only a few drops for the rest of the world to taste. The divine virtues of Albariño are celebrated in the village of Cambados (near Ponteverde), the centre of Albariño country, during the first weekend in August. It’s one of the oldest gastronomic festivals, which begins near the Parador Albariño and lasts for 3 days in the style the Spanish are so famous for. And there isn’t a dry palate to be found anywhere.

2005 MARTIN CODAX, Albariño 100%, by Martin Codax, Rias Baixas DO (Spain), 13% alcohol – to be served at 12°

(Majestic - £8.49, 2 in a case - £6.99)

Try also Oddbins for another brand, Burgans, by Martin Codax - £8.49.

DID YOU TRY SOMETHING NEW YESTERDAY?

2006-07-27T14:49:00.000-07:00

No? Well, try something new today. Put aside your safe-bet-oaky-smokey-and-a-tad-boring-Chardonnay, or Merlot for that matter. And discover Riesling, if you haven’t already. What’s that? You tried but could only find a plonky never-ever-again-Riesling? Then you spotted that very nice bottle of German can-see-can-touch-but-can’t-afford-it-Riesling? Well, try again! Discover that slick chick bottle with the German name on it: Knappstein. Not from Germany, alas, but from Australia, from a small miraculous patch called Clare Valley, famous for quality Riesling, many of which are at affordable prices.

It’s been hand picked for you to enjoy and savour the wine, to bring some little crispy spark into your life when you need it or when you fancy enjoying it to the full.

2005 Hand Picked Riesling (100%), by Knappstein, Clare Valley, Australia, 13% alcohol – to be served with fish, brie, cheddar and much more;

(Majestic and Oddbins - £6.99)

Its vibrant rich and intense character displays delicate lime and lemon flavours with green apples on the nose and palate. It is superbly balanced and at that price is bound to put a happy smile on your face. Especially recommended when you’re feeling down.

For a very simple and satisfying dinner, try this recipe (haddock fillet-or any other white fish - and broccoli) -preparation and cooking time – 15 mins, or 20 mins if you are very slow or pensive:

1. Place haddock fillet (skin-side down) on a baking tray;
2. Sprinkle with plenty of grated lime zest, chopped coriander and parsley;
3. Drizzle with olive oil;
4. Season well with freshly ground black pepper and salt and set aside for 5-6 minutes;
5. In the meantime boil a pan of water for broccoli;
6. Preheat the grill to medium (mark 3.5-4);
7. Squeeze lemon juice over the fillet;
8. Put under the grill for 5-6 minutes;
9. Boil broccoli for 3-4 minutes, drain and put on the plate with a little butter;
10. Put the fish on the plate and pour the juices over the fish and broccoli; 11. Sprinkle with fresh chopped coriander and parsley (optional);
12. Serve immediately with a glass of well-chilled Knappstein Riesling.

Life’s little sparkle is back again! Everything’s bright and cheerful. Joyous moments are exciting but elusive, now you see them now you don’t. If they’re too stubborn to appear, give them a push. You’re worth it!

HOT AND THIRSTY? – WINE OF THE WEEK

2006-07-24T08:01:00.001-07:00

Hot and thirsty and nowhere to go? Or do you feel like chilling out with your partner, or partying away with your friends or colleagues? Then why not try something special? Come on,Torres, surprise us again!

Viña Sol has been around for more than 40 years. It’s made high in the mountains from Parellada, one of the three varieties used to produce Cava. Unpretentious, but easy going and reassuringly refreshing, its soft flavours of citrus, fennel and almonds make all the difference. And what versatility! Amazing! Try it on its own, with seafood or grilled white fish, vegetarian quiches, green salad with tomato and olive oil, or light rice dishes or just with rice on its own (!) or scented with saffron. Use Tilda easy cook Basmati rice, or American easy-cook rice for the best effect. Too hot to cook? Then follow this very simple recipe:

1. Take 2 slices of your favourite rye bread (something like the Stamp Collection organic and wheat-free);
2. Use your favourite spread on them;
3. Cover them with your favourite salami and put some fresh lettuce on the side;
4. Pour a glass of well chilled Viña Sol (chilled to 10° - for about 1 hour);
5. Sit back, relax and savour.

No dessert to hand? Or want to ditch the cheesecake for once? Well,… take a few cubes of feta cheese or a slice of brie and follow points 4 and 5 in the recipe above. Delicioso!

Priced at under £5.00 or even £4.00, you can buy it just about anywhere. Now that’s what I call super value!

2005 Viña Sol, Torres, Parellada, Peñedes, Catalunya, Spain. 11.5% alcohol.

WINING AND DINING ON A BUDGET

2006-07-16T16:11:00.001-07:00

The day was drawing to a close. It was sunny but cool. Time for supper on the patio. But what to eat, considering we were on a budget? What was in the fridge? Four spicy sausages and one yellow sweet pepper. Not exactly a feast. Good enough for a nice supper? Why not, if the company is right and the wine is a good one. And my beloved is always good company. So on to the food and wine. Well, a rummage in the cupboard revealed a promising can of plum tomatoes and a packet of fusilli. So a nice spicy tomato sauce it was. Add to that some green salad with tomatoes and our favourite Fratelli MANTOVA extra virgin olive oil, maybe. But what about the wine? Well, a good match for a spicy tomato pasta is a full-bodied, ripe and spicy. Now you can’t go far wrong with Primitivo. From Puglia, Italy. (Primitivo is identical to the American Zinfandel.)

Well, unfortunately, Primitivo (varietal) in our part of London isn’t easy to find. I searched in vain for an hour. On offer were Primitivo blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, with Aglianico - to add finesse to it, to improve its structure to give it that je ne sais quoi. Primitivo with Aglianico would have to do, even if it’s covered in dust.

Supper is served, the Primitivo with Aglianico is poured but the wine is flat and long since gone. It was all there on the label, if I’d been willing to read it – 2001 – past its best. It would have to go back to the shop. But what about now? The supper was getting cold and our good spirits were fading.

There was one bottle on the winerack, something which always saves the day. Sangre de Toro. Garnacha and Carinena grapes - a heavenly blend for under £6.00. But would it complement the rich and spicy tomato pasta, sausages and yellow pepper? No es problema! It was perfect.

2003/2004 Sangre de Toro, Torres, DO Catalunia (Spain) - full body, a good acidity and soft tannin, subtle blueberry and blackcurrent flavours and spicy notes were near perfect match to the meal. Especially good with roasted meats, casseroles and grilled chicken.

Delicious! Cheers!

LA VIE EN ROSÉ

2006-07-16T16:11:00.000-07:00

Summer’s here, and fingers crossed, it’s here to stay. So let’s celebrate it and give up our ruby or tawny reds. Or gold whites even! Let’s see our lives in pink for a change. That’s right! Let’s live la vie en rosé.

Rosé is up and coming, and coming fast. It’ll probably be a very hot summer in England and its refreshing and bright personality will make it even better. Peachy, orangey, rose-pink and near carmine, it makes your table look festive and fills the evening with excitement. The best way to enjoy it is to sip it, let it linger on your palate and be pretty in pink. Vivre le rosé!

If you still find yourself resisting its refreshing and flamboyant charms, you are among the unlucky few who feel sad and deprived. Give it up and enjoy your life in pink. The summer is short!

To become an immediate convert try:

2005 Chateau de Sours, Bordeaux, Merlot 100%, 13% (to be served chilled at 10-12°)

(Majestic: £7.99 or £6.39 for any two rosés)

Its glorious intense pink has the power to fascinate and revive even the saddest of us. Its aromas of red cherry and raspberry, tinned strawberry and rose water may breathe new life into tired and tortured souls. It’s well structured and beautifully balanced with medium body, good acidity and slightly off-dry. Red cherry, tinned strawberry and rose petals on the palate.

Ideal as an aperitif; amazingly and contrary to the rules, it goes well with strawberry cheese cake (but not with fresh strawberries). It takes away the sweetness of the cheese cake and complements the strawberry flavours.

Goes well with chicken or any light dinner. Don’t be shy to experiment.